A burst of laughter echoes as a Pearly King and Queen step onto the stage, resplendent in their iconic attire. The sun glints off thousands of pearl buttons that adorn their dark suits and their hats tipped jauntily to one side. As the accordion starts to play, their feet move in perfect sync, their smiles as dazzling as their costumes. Captivated, the crowd watches in awe as this living embodiment of East London tradition performs before them.

Introduction: The Glittering Heart of East London
Such is the spectacle of the Pearly Kings and Queens, a time-honoured tradition deeply rooted in the heart of East London’s working-class communities. This article will take you on a journey through the vibrant world of these beloved icons, exploring their rich history, colourful customs, and the enduring legacy they have created for London and its people.
The Pearly Spectacle: A Riot of Tradition and Joy
To witness a Pearly King or Queen is to be immersed in a dazzling display of artistry and pride. Each suit is lovingly hand-crafted, with intricate patterns of pearl buttons sewn onto dark fabric. The designs often feature symbols of London, such as the Tower Bridge or the River Thames, alongside hearts and flowers representing love and unity. As they dance, the buttons catch the light, creating a shimmering spectacle that is as mesmerizing as beautiful.
The Pearly Kings and Queens are not just known for their visual appeal; they are also talented performers. Their songs and dances have been passed down through generations, each new Pearly inheriting the mantle of their predecessor. The energy of their performances is infectious, drawing in crowds and spreading joy wherever they go. Their voices, accompanied by the accordion, banjo, or spoons, can bring an entire street to life.
From Humble Beginnings: The Birth of the Pearly Tradition
The Pearly Kings and Queen’s story begins with a humble street sweeper named Henry Croft. Born in 1861 in the slums of St. Pancras, Croft would create a lasting legacy for over a century. Croft took this concept to a new level, inspired by the costermongers, or street traders, who adorned their clothing with pearl buttons as a sign of prestige. He covered his suit with buttons, transforming himself into the first Pearly King.
Croft’s motivation went beyond mere spectacle. He saw the potential of his new persona to draw attention to charitable causes. He began performing at events and raising money for the less fortunate in his community. His philanthropic spirit soon spread throughout the East End, and the Pearly Kings and Queens were born. Today, they continue Croft’s mission, raising funds and awareness for various charities across London.
He became known as the Pearly King of Somers Town and was presented to King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra in 1907. He died in 1930 and left behind a glittering legacy of tradition and community.
Henry Croft’s Pearly Suits: A Symbol of Charity and Culture
Henry Croft’s pearly suits were more than just a fashion statement. They were a way of expressing his identity, his values, and his dedication to helping others. He created his own style of clothing by sewing thousands of mother-of-pearl buttons onto dark fabric, forming intricate patterns and symbols. He wore his pearly suits to attract attention and collect donations for various causes, such as hospitals and orphanages. He also inspired others to follow his example and form their own pearly families.
The Inspiration Behind the Pearly Suits
Henry Croft was born in 1861 in the St Pancras Workhouse and raised in an orphanage. He worked as a municipal road sweeper from around 1876 until the 1920s. He was not a wealthy or educated man, but he had a generous heart and a creative mind. He was inspired by the costermongers, or street traders, who decorated their clothes with metal buttons as a sign of prestige and belonging. He admired their sense of community and their ability to make a living in the harsh conditions of the East End of London.
He decided to take their idea to a new level by using mother-of-pearl buttons, which were mass-produced at factories in the East End. He collected buttons from various sources, such as discarded clothing, button factories, or donations from friends. He began to sew them onto his clothes, creating his own designs and motifs. He chose pearl buttons because they were shiny and eye-catching, but also because they symbolized purity and innocence.
The Types and Designs of the Pearly Suits
Henry Croft made several types of pearly suits for himself and others. The most elaborate type was the “smother” suit, which was completely covered with white buttons. He also made more sparsely decorated “skeleton” suits, which had buttons only on the seams and edges of the fabric. He also made pearly clothes for different occasions, such as suits, hats, belts, ties, aprons, skirts, and dresses.
The designs of the pearly suits often featured symbols of London, such as the Tower Bridge or the River Thames. They also included hearts and flowers representing love and unity. Some suits also had letters or words spelling out the name of the pearly family or their area of London. Each suit was unique and reflected the personality and preferences of the wearer.
The Purpose and Legacy of the Pearly Suits
Henry Croft wore his pearly suit to raise money for charity in the late 1870s. He participated in charitable pageants and carnivals, where he would sing songs, tell jokes, and collect donations from the public. He also visited hospitals and orphanages to cheer up the patients and children. He became known as the Pearly King of Somers Town and was respected by many people for his kindness and generosity.
He also inspired others to join him in his pearly endeavours. By 1911, all 28 of the metropolitan boroughs of London had its own pearly king, pearly queen, and pearly family, often members of the local costermonger community. They formed associations and guilds to organise charitable events and preserve the pearly tradition. They also performed at various occasions, such as royal celebrations, festivals, or shows.
Henry Croft died in 1930 and was buried in a grave marked with a statue of himself wearing his pearly suit³. His legacy lives on through his descendants and followers who continue to wear their pearly suits and raise money for good causes. They are proud to be part of a tradition that celebrates London’s working-class culture and history.
(1) Henry Croft – London Pearly Kings and Queens Society Charity Fund. https://www.pearlysociety.co.uk/henry-croft.
(2) Henry Croft (pearly) – Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Croft_%28pearly%29.
(3) London’s Other Royals, the ‘Pearlies,’ Keep Alive Cockney Customs. https://www.nytimes.com/2023/04/29/world/europe/london-pearly-kings-queens-cockney.html.
Voices of the Pearly Kings and Queens: A Living Legacy
One must hear their stories firsthand to understand the Pearly Kings and Queens truly. George Major, a Pearly King himself, shares his passion for the tradition: “Being a Pearly King means more than just wearing the suit. It’s about preserving our history, giving back to our community, and ensuring that future generations understand where we came from.” His pride in his role is evident, and his commitment to keeping the Pearly tradition alive is unwavering.
Another Pearly Queen, Lorraine Wells, echoes this sentiment: “The Pearly Kings and Queens are the beating heart of East London. We unite people, create a sense of belonging, and celebrate our shared history. When I put on my Pearly suit, I feel the weight of generations behind me, and it’s an honour to carry on that legacy.”
These voices, and countless others like them, serve as a reminder of the deep connection the Pearly Kings and Queens have to their communities. They are not merely performers or costumed figures but the living embodiment of a rich and vibrant cultural heritage.
The Pearly Kings and Queens Today: A Lasting Legacy
In a rapidly changing world, the Pearly Kings and Queens are a testament to the enduring power of tradition and community spirit. While the streets of East London have transformed over the years, the Pearly presence remains a constant, providing a touchstone for those who seek a connection to the past.

The Pearly Kings and Queens continue to make a difference through their charitable work, embodying the spirit of giving and unity that has always been at the heart of their mission. They participate in events such as the annual Harvest Festival, collecting food donations for those in need, and the New Year’s Day Parade, where they showcase their talents and raise funds for various causes.
In recent years, the Pearly tradition has also begun attracting a new generation of followers in London and beyond. Social media platforms have enabled the Pearly Kings and Queens to share their stories with a broader audience, inspiring others to engage with this uniquely London tradition.
In-Depth Profiles: Notable Pearly Kings and Queens Throughout History
Several Pearly Kings and Queens have left an indelible mark on the tradition, becoming prominent figures in their communities and beyond. One such example is George Dole, the Pearly King of Forest Gate. Born in 1924, Dole dedicated more than 70 years of his life to the Pearly tradition, raising thousands of pounds for charities and mentoring future generations of Pearly Kings and Queens. His commitment to the cause was recognized with a British Empire Medal in 2012.
Another notable figure is Pearly Queen Doreen Golding, a tireless advocate for preserving the Pearly tradition. As the only Pearly Queen recognized by the London Borough of Tower Hamlets, Golding has been responsible for educating the public about the history and cultural significance of the Pearly Kings and Queens. Her efforts have been instrumental in maintaining the Pearly presence in London’s East End.
The Art of Pearly Costumes: Crafting a Glittering Masterpiece
Creating a Pearly suit is a painstaking process that requires immense skill and patience. Traditionally, the costumes are made by the Pearly Kings and Queens themselves or their family members. Each suit can take up to a year, with thousands of pearl buttons sewn onto the fabric by hand.
Sylvia Kent, a Pearly costume maker, shares her insights on the craft: “Making a Pearly suit is a labour of love. It’s not just about sewing buttons; it’s about creating a piece of art that tells a story and reflects the spirit of the wearer.” Kent’s dedication to her craft ensures that each suit she creates is a unique and cherished addition to the Pearly tradition.
Songs, Dances, and Instruments: The Sounds of Pearly Performance
The Pearly Kings and Queens are known for lively and engaging performances, often including traditional Cockney songs and dances. Favourites such as “Knees Up Mother Brown,” “My Old Man’s a Dustman,” and “Any Old Iron” are staples of their repertoire, sung with gusto and accompanied by instruments like the accordion, banjo, and spoons.
Pearly dances, like the Lambeth Walk and the Cockney Jig, are energetic and joyful, allowing the performers to showcase their skill and entertain their audience. These songs and dances not only provide entertainment but also serve as a connection to the past, preserving the heritage of East London’s working-class communities.
Pearly Kings and Queens in Popular Culture
The distinctive costumes and captivating performances of the Pearly Kings and Queens have caught the attention of popular culture over the years. They have made appearances in films like “The Optimists of Nine Elms” (1973) and “The Greatest Show on Earth” (1952), as well as television programs such as “EastEnders” and “The Good Old Days.” Their presence in these productions has helped to raise awareness of their tradition and introduce new generations to the unique world of the Pearly Kings and Queens.
Comparing the Pearly Tradition: Cultural Counterparts
While the Pearly Kings and Queens are distinctly London, there are similar cultural figures in other parts of the UK and worldwide. For example, the Whitby “Goth Weekend” in North Yorkshire, England, features a unique twist on the Pearly tradition, with participants donning Gothic-inspired attire adorned with pearl buttons. In New Orleans, Louisiana, the Mardi Gras Indians create intricate beaded and feathered suits, drawing on African and Native American traditions to celebrate their unique cultural heritage.
These examples illustrate the universal appeal of costume and performance to express identity, create a sense of community, and preserve cultural traditions. Though they may differ in style and origin, these cultural counterparts share a common thread of pride, artistry, and celebration.
The Pearly Kings and Queens: A Lasting Legacy for Future Generations
As the Pearly Kings and Queens continue to captivate the hearts and minds of Londoners and visitors alike, efforts are being made to ensure the survival of this rich tradition for future generations. Pearly families pass their knowledge and skills to their children and grandchildren, instilling a deep appreciation for their unique heritage. In addition, museums, like the Museum of London, preserve Pearly artefacts and provide educational resources to help the public better understand the history and cultural significance of the Pearly Kings and Queens.

Community events, such as the annual Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival, continue to draw crowds and provide opportunities for Pearly families to showcase their talents, raise funds for charity, and share their stories. These events serve as a vital link between the past and the present, helping to keep the Pearly spirit alive in the hearts of Londoners and beyond.
Conclusion: A Celebration of Tradition, Community, and Cultural Pride
With their distinctive costumes, captivating performances, and unwavering commitment to charitable causes, the Pearly Kings and Queens of East London have created a lasting legacy that spans generations. Their enduring presence in the face of societal changes and the passage of time is a testament to the power of tradition, community, and cultural pride.
By celebrating and sharing their unique heritage with the world, the Pearly Kings and Queens have secured their place in London’s cultural tapestry. As we look to the future, their story inspires us all, reminding us of the importance of preserving and cherishing our diverse cultural traditions.
So, the next time you find yourself wandering the streets of East London, take a moment to appreciate the glittering history that surrounds you. And if you’re fortunate enough to encounter a Pearly King or Queen, remember that you are witnessing a living symbol of London’s vibrant and enduring spirit.
- Organisation: The Pearly Society
Description: The official website of the Pearly Society, featuring the history of Pearly Kings and Queens, events, and news. - Museum: Museum of London
Description: The Museum of London features exhibits on the Pearly Kings and Queens, including artifacts, photographs, and educational resources.
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